The call of the islands has penetrated every serious wave rider with fantasies and nightmares for decades. It was time to bring the dream alive. Hawaii is a sacred place energised by the constant flow of the earths bubbling DNA announcing itself everywhere the eye can see. It is literally a melting pot of life and to witness this phenomenon first hand is incredible to say the least. It is currently 2:00am, the rain on our roof sounds like a lullaby and as Catie sleeps next to me I can see she is dreaming in a state of bliss.
A five-acre eco-farm perched 500 metres above sea level is our current residence. There is an abundance of edible flora accented by a lush barrier of trees surrounding the place. Fair to say we feel very content in our surroundings.
Zooming across the belt road that cuts through the island we reach 3000 feet above sea level humming along the coast to Waipio Valley. After forty-five minutes of solid hiking from the main road we are in an untouched paradise. Pine trees stand at attention along the shore like green sentinels guarding the river mouth at its centre. Beyond the shoreline the black sand gives way to the blue ocean and a fresh groundswell. 4-6 foot lefthanders are pounding the shore with almost no one in sight. Pausing momentarily we watched the locals snag a couple of waves before pursuing our ascent towards civilisation. As expected the sky was an impressionist masterpiece full of red and orange as the sun melted away.